Arc-to-Arc Skiing Technique & Therory
Symmetric
Side Cut Claw Skis
The
combination of a short radius symmetric side cut plus the patented, extreme damping design
of the CLAW gives a unique opportunity for arc-to-arc carved turn skiing. But, your skiing
style and movements should be adjusted to best use those new ”tools”.
Most of the up and down, fore and aft rotation and subtle edge control required to skid
traditional or transitional skis are now superfluous. All of the symmetric CLAWS are best
skied with the following guidelines; the goal is to carve most of all your turns and skid
into longer or shorter than the carved turn arc only when necessary. Remember, there is
only one true carved turn arc (radius) for any given speed and ski side cut radius. Find
out what turn the ski wants to carve and evolve your flow down the mountain around this
radius.
Feet
Apart: Between five
inches (hip width) and twelve inches separation between skis. Combine this with a lower,
bent knee strong body position. When turning experiment with the outer ski way out to get
maximum edge angle while unloading the inside ski by bringing your upper leg up closer to
your chest. If the boots are too close while carving, the inside boot will restrict the
freedom and edging of the outside ski. Bring the skis together in powder or in moguls. The
weight will be distributed about 70 to 90% on the outside ski for maximum leg strength
although you can practice balancing on either ski alone.
High
Edge Angles: In
order for the skis (especially the outer ski) to hold and carve, “fall in” with
your hip toward the center of the turn. This leaves the skis out to the side and is just
the opposite of pushing the skis out to the side to skid and control speed or change
direction. This will be disconcerting at first and will not work with traditional skis
because the skis will run too straight. The short radius skis, however, will generate
substantial centripetal force, which will balance the centrifugal force you develop and
keep you from falling inward. Have faith; the skis will come back under you as you move
across to the next turn. Very short radius skis like the symmetric CLAWS will immediately
start carving a tighter turn than the other shaped or race carver skis on the market.
Steer
with your Hip and Knee: As you move to the inside to edge
the skis also move your inside hip forward toward the center of the new turn. This will
feel like rotating your hip counter to the turn direction but actually the skis are making
the direction change and your hips (as well as knees and shoulders) remain quiet, parallel
to each other, and facing down hill. Your boots will also remain in this parallel plane
which will result in an inside ski lead (shuffle). This should feel like you are bowing
outward towards the outside of the turn and your body will feel quite angular. This
position allows you to best resist the strong centripetal forces generated by the carving
skis.
Quick
Arc to Arc: Make
your high edge angle from one turn to the next quickly while rolling both knees and edging
the skis in unison. This is very much like roller blading. If you up-unweight to flatten
the skis as was necessary in the old days for a skidded direction change...you will
skid...just what you don’t want to do. We’re talking about absolute, pure
carving. Many will say that it’s not possible but the racers do it at higher speeds
and longer radii. With short radius symmetric CLAWS you can assume exactly the same body
position as a world cup racer but at speeds and radii that are appropriate for
recreational skiing, tighter GS courses, and slalom.
Understand
the Equipment: A
carving ski will carve a turn with a radius about 70% the side cut radius; e.g. a 21 meter
“race carver” ski, which is the FIS minimum for GS racing, will try to carve a
turn of about 15 meters or 50 feet radius. This is too large and too fast for most
recreational situations regardless of skier ability. Even the new short slalom skis on the
market today have 16 to 18 meter side cuts which is in the same ball park as the longest
radius (185-18.5 meter) symmetric CLAWS. In order to control your speed by carving across
the slope, “tree to tree” without having to resort to skidding, you need a ski
in the 12 to 15 meter side cut range. For instance the 163-13 meter symmetric CLAW will
carve about a 30-foot radius turn. This allows arc-to-arc skiing at 90 degrees across the
fall line in a typical 60-foot wide trail. Longer radius skis than about 15-meter side cut
require some skidding regardless of the skier’s skill level. Skiers who claim to be
“carving” are in reality pivoting (skidding) the first part of the turn to
change direction through the fall line and truly carving (“hooking up”) only in
the later part of the turn especially on steeper slopes. All short radius skis need to be
very flexible to reverse bend into the turn and not over control at the ends. The CLAW¨
damping system combined with the variable spring rate flex cuts allow proper flex without
the ski becoming “floppy” and unstable in straight running or at high speeds.
Skid
Only When Necessary:
True carving is very efficient. You will immediately feel new precision and speed. Try to
control your speed by coming across the hill more than by skidding (side slipping) down
the hill. Your tracks should be “pencil-thin” even on ice. Use the same
technique and skis for all conditions except deep powder, which requires a specialized
wide ski. Keep driving forward with your upper body, knees, and inside hip to keep up with
the speed. You no longer have to move your weight rearward at the end of the turn to
control skidding. The wide tail and forward boot position of the symmetric CLAWS will give
you all the holding power you need assuming the edges are sharp at one degree base bevel.
When it is necessary to skid to control speed or change direction in other than the carved
turn radius...just release the high edge angle and more traditional movements will
suffice. When you want to stop, try not to skid the skis sideways. The short side cut
radius and holding power of those skis makes them less easy to skid. Just arc into another
turn and carve uphill if necessary.
Safety
Note: As you start carving arc to arc
turns across hill without skidding-off your speed. You will quickly become aware that you
are skiing across the traditional skier’s down the-hill direction. You will be going
the same or higher speed than a skidding skier going straighter down the hill. Be sure and look over your shoulder and check up hill before carving.
Hands
and Poles: As your
knees, hips, boots and shoulders stay in a parallel plane; so too should your hands.
Traditional, individual pole plants lead to excessive rotation. Instead, keep both hands
in front, at a comfortable height, across the hill, and horizontal. Do not drop either
hand or let them get behind you. When in doubt move the inside hand forwards and upwards.
Your hands will be in ideal position for a double pole plant across the fall line. The
double pole plant will bring your upper body forward into a very strong correct position
to start the next turn. Use it frequently especially at slower speeds and in difficult
terrain. There will be only time for a light touch of the poles but the hand position and
down-the-hill movement with the upper body will be the same. When possible, watch the
racers as they are leading the way to the most efficient carving skiing. If you stay in a
traditional skidding style of skiing, the short radius symmetric CLAWS will not perform as
effectively as with a more modern technique.
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